Story Time…………………
In late 2023, I was commissioned by a food and travel magazine to head to a place called Guyana to photograph food traditionally made by the indigenous communities along with locations and people . Honestly, I'd never heard of it. It wasn't until I mentioned it to my daughter that I realised I was heading to South America—and, astonishingly, to the Amazon.
Never had the saying “ Be careful what you wish for “ been so true.
The itinerary took me on a flight from cold, wet London to a hot, 40° c Georgetown, ( Guyana’s capital ) and from there, I navigated the Rupununi Savannah by a combination of canoes, trucks, and small planes. It was fair to say that my fear of flying was tested to the max when sat in what felt like a tin can, miles up over the rainforest and lets not even mention my preconceived, totally ridiculous fear of being eaten by an anaconda or cayman.
In the first few days, we visited communities and ranches across the Rupununi Savannah, traveling on rough, orange roads. Our vehicles, essentially reinforced people carriers, were driven by drivers who were also adept mechanics. On these rugged, pothole-filled paths, mechanical skills were essential; without them, you'd be stranded.
At each ranch we stayed at, we were welcomed with incredible warmth. The Guyanese people greeted us with generosity and smiling faces, making every arrival feel special.
The Rupununi Savannah is home to a blend of communities. Alongside the Indigenous Wapishana, Macushi, and Waiwai tribes, there are Afro-Guyanese and Indo-Guyanese whose ancestors arrived during the colonial era as enslaved people and contracted workers. There's also a notable Chinese-Guyanese population that settled as contracted workers after slavery ended. This mix of cultures, shapes the region's unique character.
As time went by, rural Guyana was becoming nothing short of paradise to me. Apart from the heat. As a ginger, freckled woman, deep into the menopausal phase in my life, battling 40° heat with added hot flushes and steamed up glasses was quite tiresome at times and made photographing a challenge. On the upside, Id never eaten so well and I’d never drank as much water as I did during this expedition. Every day there was an offering of freshly picked fruits, exotic looking salads and so many types of bread from puffy fry bake through to flat round cassava bread.
Before arriving in Guyana, I was a slightly annoying vegan with opinions to boot…….opinions I quickly ditched when offered freshly caught Piranha and roasted wild pig.
A traditional dish in Guyana is called pepperpot. This rich, hearty stew is usually made with beef, pork, or mutton, slow-cooked with cassareep—a flavorful sauce from the cassava root. Cassareep not only gives pepperpot its distinctive taste but also helps preserve it. The dish is seasoned with spices like cinnamon and cloves, creating a unique blend of sweet and savory flavors. Pepperpot is especially popular during Christmas and special occasions, often enjoyed with homemade bread. It reflects the fusion of Indigenous and African culinary traditions in Guyana.
After spending time in and around indigenous communities within the Savannah, it was impossible to ignore the beautiful simplicity of life there. Coming from the UK, more specifically South Wales where B & M’s and Home Bargains are endless yet always busy with people buying anything from glitter covered ornaments to, well, just any old tat, it wasn’t like that in rural Guyana. It was about traditional skills and crafts, it was about working together to create meals, homes, farms….the sense of community was strong. Early one morning whilst staying at the Karanambu Lodge, I had the privilege to accompany a young man who worked there, on an early morning fishing trip. It was one of those moments where I had to pinch myself. Speeding along the Essequibo River in his wooden canoe, he’d occasionally slow down to show me a cayman or large kingfisher whilst at the same time, telling me about his life in Guyana. His mother had died and his father had met another woman and spent less and less time with his children so, Yung as the oldest child, was left responsible for looking after his younger siblings. He worked at the ranch as a “ handy man “ but when he wasnt working, his spare time was spent on the river fishing, as this was the Guyanese way of chilling at the weekend. From an early age, children are taught where to fish, what to fish for, and how to fish for it. Piranha are plentiful however its not something you want to see your 3 year old catch and unhook but in Guyana, its the way it is. I was told that it’s quite common for people to be missing a finger or a toe thanks to a snappy fish.